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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.